In January 2007, I went back to China again for more than a month. My heart was not in it. I did wonder if I had reached the end of the road. Would it not be more honest, I asked myself, to admit that the gluttonous China phase of my life was over? It had been an incredible journey, for sure, and one that I wouldn't have missed for anything. But the joy of it had faded. Years before, I had abandoned one career based on other people's expectations of me, and it had been a liberation. Perhaps it was time to do the same thing again. Often, people were asking me, 'Which Chinese regional cuisine are you going to do next, Fuchsia?', assuming that I was planning to write a book about each province in turn. 'Are you crazy?' I wanted to reply. 'Do you know how many provinces there are? Do you know what Hunan did to me?'

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