It is just before 9 a. m. in a classroom at the cooking school, and Teacher Long is explaining how to make huo bao yao hua, 'fire-exploded kidney flowers'. She draws a long flow chart on the blackboard in powdery chalk as she takes us through the various procedures of the recipe, scrawling down the technical terms in Chinese characters. It's all very systematic. The cooking method is huo bao, 'fire-exploding', a variation of basic stir-frying that involves cooking finely cut ingredients very fast over a high flame. The flavour profile is han xian wei, salty-savoury flavour. And because pig's kidneys, the main ingredient, have a distinctive 'off-taste' (yi wei), or more specifically a 'uriney taste' (sao wei) in their raw state, it is essential to marinate them in Shaoxing wine to refine and elevate their flavour.

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